Materials and Tools needed to make footwear in How to Make Simple Shoes for Women, How to Make Simple Shoes for Children and How to Make the Renaissance boot

(T) Tandy Leather – www.tandyleathercompany

(H) Hide and Leather House –

(GN) Garlin Neumann

(OTB) Ohio Travel Bag –


(WL) – Weaver Leather –

(W) Westphal, (212)563-5990 – sells Osborne Tools

(F) Frankford Leather – – sells 12 iron (3/16″ thick) natural plantation crepe

(N) Nord shoe supply on ebay – soling and other shoe repair supplies

(H) Hormas el arbol – contact Gabriela Gonzalez at: – shoe lasts, the style I use is 1100 – send check in payment, the bank check they prefer is costly.

(SL) Springfield Leather – – sells a variety of tools and materials

(WC) Wickett and Craig – vegetable-tanned leather, ideal for topsoles,


upper material – ideally, 4-5-ounce chrome-tanned leather – H, GN, SL

pigskin lining if needed* TL, SL

8 – 10 ounce vegetable-tanned topsole leather is ideal, but other thicknesses and chrome-tanned leather can be used WC

2–3-ounce vegetable-tanned leather for making toe box, optional T, H

natural rubber F, or 9-10-ounce vegetable-tanned leather (WC) or other material for bottom sole (N)

stitching awl thread SL, TL – I recommend using waxed braided cord (Tyger Thread) 1.0mm from

Ecoweld water-based contact cement TL

double-sided 1/4″ tape

silver gel pen

fine-tipped permanent marker for marking on felt or fabric – chalk sometimes works

heavier braided waxed cord for stitching uppers to the soles SL, TL

stitching awl thread or waxed linen for stitching uppers SL, TL


rivets, if needed SL, TL, or OTB

eyelets if desired for derby style shoe ,OTB

if you decide to make your own lasts: peltex or felt – fabric store

sand to fill last  


pair of lasts, either purchased or made yourself, H

leather-cutting scissors if using leather, or scissors for felt or fabric, SL, TL

stitching awl – preferably Osborne haft with speedy stitcher needle inserted into it, W, WL, SL

skiver, also called beveling knife, and blades, SL, TL, WL

safety glass or piece of marble for a skiving surface

1/8” Osborne 3-prong thonging chisel, for punching stitching slits in leather, W

1-prong thonging chisel, rotary punch, and/or round hand punches, SL, TL

wing dividers, SL, TL

heavy-duty pounding board if using hand punches or chisels, WL – or use end-cut wood cutting board – it can be sanded or planed for continual reuse

maul for pounding punches, WL

harness needles for stitching seams of leather uppers, SL, TL – or 2/0 needles for stitching with Tyger Thread

glover’s needles for stitching thin leather, SL, TL, WL

belt sander

buffer, optional but useful for finishing soles

Materials and Tools for making moccasins from How to Make Moccasins


upper material – chap-splits, 4-5 ounce suede, soft-temper bullhide from, maybe elk or moose if it’s lined (these hides are very soft)

deerhide or pigskin lining (optional)

bottom sole – natural rubber sheet soling, vegetable-tanned leather soling, dance suede 

 inexpensive felt for making mock-ups 

waxed nylon stitching awl thread for stitching upper pieces together

waxed braided cord

Ecoweld water-based contact cement

silver gel pen for temporarily marking leather 

double-sided tape


leather-cutting scissors if using leather, or scissors for felt or fabric 

1/2″ acid brushes for cement 

harness needles 

glover’s needles

Osborne thonging chisel #483, prongs 1/8” apart

single-prong 1/8″ thonging chisel 

rotary cutter, pad, and ruler set, optional

sandpaper – skiver, also called beveling knife, and blades

safety glass or marble – skiving surface

rotary punch or round hand punches 

pounding board or end-cut wood cutting board for pounding hand punches on

maul for pounding punches

compass for marking with pen, pencil and/or gel pen

wing dividers

1/2″ chisel, optional

belt sander – to sand the edge if you are using a leather bottom sole

Materials and Tools for



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