If you have watched my video How to make WORLD custom moccasin-shoes (moccashoes) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MALuCYp_tsw&t=2s, you know that the custom pattern for making them begins by drawing around the wearer’s foot. The foot drawing supplies the pattern for both the underfoot and overfoot parts of the moccashoe. To make the sides, an edge is added all around the underfoot part. This results in the underfoot being gathered as it is stitched to the overfoot part, as it is much bigger.
To make the “no gathers” moccashoe, add half of the side to the underfoot and half of the side to the overfoot. I realize that a video will be better than words, so please stay tuned for its completion. After that, I’ll be making a video showing how to make a shoe with all the side added to the overfoot part and none to the underfoot part!