(P) – vegetable-tanned earth-friendly goat, deer and calf leather in 2 and 4-ounce weight

(T) Tandy Leather – www.tandyleathercompany

(H) Hide and Leather House –

(GN) Garlin Neumann

(OTB) Ohio Travel Bag –


(WL) – Weaver Leather –

(W) Westphal, (212)563-5990 – sells Osborne Tools

(F) Frankford Leather – – sells 12 iron (3/16″ thick) natural plantation crepe

(N) Nord shoe supply on ebay – soling and other shoe repair supplies

(H) Hormas el arbol – contact Gabriela Gonzalez at: – shoe lasts, the style I use is 1100 – send check in payment, the bank check they prefer is costly.

(SL) Springfield Leather – – sells a variety of tools and materials

(WC) Wickett and Craig – vegetable-tanned leather, ideal for topsoles,

Materials list

upper material – vegetable-tanned 4-ounce leather tanned and dyed in New York State! Or,  4-5-ounce chrome-tanned leather – H, GN, SL

pigskin lining if needed* TL, SL

topsole – 8 – 10 ounce vegetable-tanned leather is ideal, but other thicknesses and chrome-tanned leather can be used WC

toe box and heel support if using – 2–3-ounce vegetable-tanned leather,  P – 2-oz goat from “practice material, undyed samples, or   T, H

natural rubber F, or 9-10-ounce vegetable-tanned leather (WC) or other material for bottom sole (N)

waxed braided thread  – I recommend using waxed braided cord (Tyger Thread) 1.0mm from

heavier braided waxed cord, optional, for stitching uppers to the soles SL, TL

Ecoweld water-based contact cement TL

double-sided 1/4” tape

silver gel pen

fine-tipped permanent marker for marking on felt or fabric – chalk sometimes works


rivets, if needed SL, TL, or OTB

eyelets if desired for derby style shoe ,OTB

if you decide to make your own lasts: peltex or felt – fabric store

sand to fill last  

Tools list

pair of lasts, either purchased or made yourself, H

leather-cutting scissors if using leather, or scissors for felt or fabric, SL, TL

stitching awl – preferably Osborne haft with speedy stitcher needle inserted into it, W, WL, SL

skiver, also called beveling knife, and blades, SL, TL, WL

safety glass or piece of marble for a skiving surface

1/8” Osborne 3-prong thonging chisel, for punching stitching slits in leather, SL

1-prong thonging chisel, rotary punch, and/or round hand punches, SL, TL

wing dividers, SL, TL

heavy-duty pounding board if using hand punches or chisels, WL – or use end-cut wood cutting board – it can be sanded or planed for continual reuse

maul for pounding punches, WL

harness needles for stitching seams of leather uppers, SL, TL – or 2/0 needles for stitching with Tyger Thread

glover’s needles for stitching thin leather, SL, TL, WL

belt sander

buffer, optional but useful for finishing soles

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