Sources:
(P) www.pergamena.net – vegetable-tanned earth-friendly goat, deer and calf leather in 2 and 4-ounce weight
(T) Tandy Leather – www.tandyleathercompany
(H) Hide and Leather House – www.hidehouse.com
(GN) Garlin Neumann
(OTB) Ohio Travel Bag – www.ohiotravelbag.com
(SS) www.simpleshoemaking.com/wp
(WL) – Weaver Leather – www.leathersupply.com
(W) Westphal, (212)563-5990 – sells Osborne Tools
(F) Frankford Leather – www.frankfordleather.com – sells 12 iron (3/16″ thick) natural plantation crepe
(N) Nord shoe supply on ebay – soling and other shoe repair supplies
http://stores.ebay.com/Nordshoe?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
(H) Hormas el arbol – contact Gabriela Gonzalez at: trafico@hormaselarbol.com – shoe lasts, the style I use is 1100 – send check in payment, the bank check they prefer is costly.
(SL) Springfield Leather – www.springfieldleather.com – sells a variety of tools and materials
(WC) Wickett and Craig – vegetable-tanned leather, ideal for topsoles,
Materials list
upper material – www.pergamena.net vegetable-tanned 4-ounce leather tanned and dyed in New York State! Or, 4-5-ounce chrome-tanned leather – H, GN, SL
pigskin lining if needed* TL, SL
topsole – 8 – 10 ounce vegetable-tanned leather is ideal, but other thicknesses and chrome-tanned leather can be used WC
toe box and heel support if using – 2–3-ounce vegetable-tanned leather, P – 2-oz goat from “practice material, undyed samples, or T, H
natural rubber F, or 9-10-ounce vegetable-tanned leather (WC) or other material for bottom sole (N)
waxed braided thread – I recommend using waxed braided cord (Tyger Thread) 1.0mm from www.etsy.com/shop/LeatherWurx
heavier braided waxed cord, optional, for stitching uppers to the soles SL, TL
Ecoweld water-based contact cement TL
double-sided 1/4” tape
silver gel pen
fine-tipped permanent marker for marking on felt or fabric – chalk sometimes works
sandpaper
rivets, if needed SL, TL, or OTB
eyelets if desired for derby style shoe ,OTB
if you decide to make your own lasts: peltex or felt – fabric store
sand to fill last
Tools list
pair of lasts, either purchased or made yourself, H
leather-cutting scissors if using leather, or scissors for felt or fabric, SL, TL
stitching awl – preferably Osborne haft with speedy stitcher needle inserted into it, W, WL, SL
skiver, also called beveling knife, and blades, SL, TL, WL
safety glass or piece of marble for a skiving surface
1/8” Osborne 3-prong thonging chisel, for punching stitching slits in leather, SL
1-prong thonging chisel, rotary punch, and/or round hand punches, SL, TL
wing dividers, SL, TL
heavy-duty pounding board if using hand punches or chisels, WL – or use end-cut wood cutting board – it can be sanded or planed for continual reuse
maul for pounding punches, WL
harness needles for stitching seams of leather uppers, SL, TL – or 2/0 needles for stitching with Tyger Thread
glover’s needles for stitching thin leather, SL, TL, WL
belt sander
buffer, optional but useful for finishing soles