These are the simplest shoes because they are made without lasts (foot-shaped molds). This construction technique provides the shaping and lift in the toe area that forming over a last provides. Stitch holes are marked on the patterns that you punch around the top edge of the sole and the bottom edge of the upper; the shoe comes together when you stitch through these holes. Once you understand the technique, you can make uppers of your own design.
What are nomocs and lomocs? They are based on Native American moccasins. With the nomoc, the leather provides the sole but only comes up 1/4″ on the sides, so there’s no indication that it is based on a moccasin.
The sole of a lomoc comes further up along the side of the foot, but lower than it does in a usual moccasin; gathers form at the heel and toe.
The fomoc is not a moccasin at all even though it looks like one. Instead there’s a band attached to the topsole; no gathers are formed.
As with all my books, biodegradable and recycled materials are recommended, and non-toxic cements are used.
This book offers directions and patterns for making espadrilles, a tie shoe, a chukka boot and a higher boot, and a variety of flats in women’s sizes six to ten.