“Scarpits” was the name of the house shoes that my Italian “nona” (grandmother) made for all the family and required everyone to wear when visiting her home. I dedicated Crafting Handmade Shoes to her, and described our relationship in the following Introduction to this book.
This is the book to purchase if you love to design footwear – or for someone you love who loves to design footwear. It’s the workbook used when the author teaches Footwear Design at FIT in New York, the London College of Fashion, and Pollimoda in Florence, Italy. But you can purchase it online – amazon has it, and used copies would be fine, I would think.
– describes the design process from inspiration to final presentation
– includes practical tips and step-by-step guides to collection design
– showcases the work of key designers and footwear experts
There are amazing shoes and boots in this book, this is my favorite pair:
( aku bäckström uses various interesting materials and finishes, such as felt and paint)
OMG (this is the first time I have used this expression), check out this Finnish designer’s webpage www.akubackstrom.com for photos of more footwear guaranteed to shake up your ideas of how shoes should be.
Then design and make some yourself to shake our ideas of how shoes should be and please send photos!
Beki made these lovely boots from felt in a class with Carin Engen at Oregon Flock & Fiber Festival this past fall. It can be worn outside because it has been stitched to outdoor Soles with an Edge, a product that I make and sell in my Etsy shop.
Here are a couple of pairs of shoes that my daughter recently made for friends who have also recently had babies. The pattern is in How to Make Simple Shoes for Children, in the smallest size, which is for a 3 1/2″ long foot. Since these leathers were so soft, she made them with the seams inside the shoe instead of the usual stitch-down process that we usually use. It seems to be easier for those with such pliable feet to get shoes on made in this way. One could put a little pad of wool fleece (I have a box of it cleaned, get in touch if you’re interested) in there also to make sure the inside-seam didn’t rub on feet, or a piece of lambskin.
I am elated with my discovery today – I was thumbing through my precious copy of Primitive Shoes by Margrethe Hald thinking, “wouldn’t it be wonderful if this book were available to everyone.”
I ordered mine from the National Museum of Denmark about twenty years ago and pick it up often to marvel at the brilliance of the minds that figured out so many unique and beautiful ways to cover their feet, and sometimes to attempt to duplicate their creations – the subtitle is: An Archaeological-Ethnological Study Based upon Shoe Finds from the Jutland Peninsula.
I believe the book was published post- humously. Thank you, Margrethe Hald, for leaving such a gift behind.
She even left us with this message and poem:
..”there can be no double that it was a hard fate, and evidence of bitter poverty, to have no protection for one’s feet when conditions were bleak. This can be gathered from the medieval vision poems. In these, to give shoes to the shoeless is accounted a good deed of high merit, in return for which the giver is promised relief on the hard road to the other world.”
(quoted after Knut Liestol)
“Gone have I over Gjaller Bridge
with sharp hooks in a row.
Yet worse I thought the stinking marsh
God help those who there must go!”
“Blest is he who in this life
gave shoes to the needy poor.
He will not have to walk barefoot
on the sharp and thorny moor.”
So, I googled for the book – and found the entire book available at no charge at: http://vitezek.io.ua/album213075
Last night I was scrutinizing a pair of shoes a woman was wearing that looked similar to a Roman latticework sandal – she said they were made by Mia, but I couldn’t find a photo of them on the internet.
The shoes in the photo below are somewhat similar to the shoes I saw, it’s a pair that I’d like to work out the pattern for some day.
My first grandchild, Millena Tansy Strom, was born on Sunday evening, and I am still in a state of euphoria – even though I listened to a few moans too many from my dear daughter during the day. (she says it was totally worth it). I think she’ll be called Millie, and Lena was the name of my adored Italian grandmother (Nona) who made black velvet houseshoes for us. What a fascinating baby – we all can sit and look at her expressions for hours! It’s like a “Tom and Jerry” cartoon is running in her mind! What a miracle is life, may Millie’s always be filled with love.
I received an email from Ecopel, the naturally tanned and dyed leather from Germany, with information on an exhibition described in the following paragraph. One of the shoes on display is that of Otzi, the mummified man found in the Italian alps about twenty years ago, that proved to be about 5000 years old. (check wikipedia for more information, it’s amazing what has been discovered by testing substances found in his intestines, his mitochondrial DNA, and countless other aspects of him.)
I have been most interested in his shoes, in fact I’ll dig up an article about them and post, but in the meantime his shoes have been reproduced for the exhibit. Here’s a photo of them – I’m fascinated by the way the sole is molded upward and held in place by a strip of leather woven through it – now I want a pair!
The Rhineland-State Museum for archeological, art and cultural history in Bonn is currently showing a special exhibition about footwear. ‘From Ötzis’ shoes to high heels’ 400 samples can be seen here. The exhibition demonstrates that for us as humans, shoes have an essential jacketing and protecting meaning and at the same time are a kind of jewelry and serve as a way of self-expression. Shoe loans of famous people from Picasso over Jürgen Klinsmann to Lady Gaga can be seen there as well as women’s shoes of the Rococo or soldier’s boots of the Roman Age. Someone who is interested in shoes will find a rich fund of information and inspiration visiting the exhibition.
At an arts (and garlic) festival this fall, a woman stopped to ask me if I’d read The Shoemaker’s Wife. No I hadn’t, but I wrote down the title. Then she elaborated, telling me that she is Italian and that she especially loved the book because in it the author used the immigration story of her own ancestors from the mountains of Northern Italy to the United States as the basis for it. Well! my ancestors immigrated from the mountains of Northern Italy too! So I couldn’t wait to get the book, and when I did, I had such fun immersed in the glorious story. I even cooked polenta one night to eat while reading it. I recommend this book; one doesn’t learn a lot about shoemaking from it, but a lot about human nature and one family’s journey that represents so many others.
http://www.marthastewart.com/864540/stephanies-sewn-felt-slippers – is the url for a great slipper pattern based on a Native American moccasin, published in Martha Stewart’s Living magazine recently. It has a lot of versatility, as shown in the photo.
http://vimeo.com/32458552 – is the url for a video of Stephanie herself showing you how to make these slippers; I think my contribution will be to make a set of women’s patterns for these slippers, and kids as well.
And finally for this post: http://escapefrombk.wordpress.com/2011/11/27/sewn-felt-slippers/ for yet another version. I’ll work on the pattern and hopefully post some templates tomorrow.
And, can you believe it – another version at: http://zipperteeth.blogspot.com/2012/03/sewn-felt-slippers.html
There is a group of shoe and bootmakers that gathers once a year on the weekend nearest October 25, St. Crispin’s Day (the patron-saint of shoemakers, of course). This year the gathering was in Middlebury Vt, and I have just returned home from it.
I went with specific questions that I wanted answers for, and I am so grateful that my questions were answered. I am in process of creating “soles with an edge” with a leather sole and heel, in addition to the natural rubber sole and heel that I have always made, and needed information on thickness and type of leather, how to make a groove around the bottom edge so the stitches wouldn’t be on the ground, and how to make a nice shiny edge on the leather sole.
So, I’m looking for “5-7 ounce soling strips”, a sanding wheel for my dremel tool for making the stitching groove, and a “bone edger” for burnishing the edge of the sole, after a coat of “Vermont beeswax” has been applied. No doubt I will be doing a lot of experimenting this week!
And there were many fine people to connect and reconnect with; Dan Freeman, the fine shoemaker, was the host at his shop in Middlebury; Larry Waller of www.walrusshoe.com who sells sets of lasts, shoemaking books and shoemaking machinery; Daphne Board of www.diabloshoe.com who is studying to be a pedorthist so the exquisite shoes that she makes will now be built to heal the wearer’s foot problems.
Nancy Benoit – www.soleofvermont.com – is making (sorry, I have to use the word “exquisite” again!) exquisite flip-flops, flats and low-high heels at her shop in Manchester Vt. She serves special dinners in her barn during the summer, so I have already placed a note on my next-year’s calendar reminding me to make reservations – then I’ll also be able to see her very special shoe studio.
There was a “bespoke (custom) shoemaker” who makes full-welted shoes with a shop in Brooklyn, a young mother who is preparing to have her line of shoes made in Eastern Europe, a shoemaker from Montreal who fooled all including myself into thinking that the designs on his shoes were applique, while in fact he stitched around the design, the dyed the leather inside the stitching! There was no applique at all, just very careful stitching and dyeing.
I am enjoying looking back over the weekend and realizing how rich it was for me – perhaps you’ll be there next year!